Felicity Ford aka KNITSONIK is a long time Old Fire Station favourite stockist. You may remember Felicity from such goodies as the Sonic Tuck Shop, iHear Audio Walks and a whole lot of badges, amongst many other things.
The ever industrious Felicity is in the shop as we speak, running her workshop 'Turning 3-D into 2-D: The Fabric of the City' (scroll down the page for full details...) and we're taking full advantage of having her here to pick her brain and bend her ears...
When did you first begin your love affair with knitting? Who
taught you how to knit?
My granny taught me to knit when I
was a little girl. However It wasn't until 2005 when I came to Oxford to do my
MA at Oxford Brookes and joined the Oxford Bluestockings that I got REALLY
excited about knitting!
The Oxford Bluestockings still
meet every Wednesday evening in The Royal Oak pub on Woodstock Road, and that
group of knitters is amazing! The collective level of skill is really
inspiring, and of the knitters who attended in the early 00s, quite a few have
gone on to design patterns or produce yarn. Katie is now the proprietor of Oxford Kitchen Yarns and now dyes
yarns naturally and sells them through Darn it and Stitch, while Liz has several beautiful garment patterns
on Ravelry, which - if you haven't heard of it - is an amazing resource for
anyone who knits or crochets!
When I first joined and saw the
elaborate things everyone was making. I was instantly inspired to get better at
knitting! Liz's knitting in particular massively inspired me. She was making a
lace stole when I first joined the Bluestockings, and it looked impossibly
complex! Liz still blows my mind. She churns out the most amazing projects at
great speed, and I have always been inspired by her knitting.
What was the first thing you remember knitting?
I think the first actual thing I made was actually a knitted
firework for my partner, Mark. I made it years ago! Mark loves fireworks and I
loved the design challenge of trying to make one out of yarn! I used eyelash
yarn (the really glittery, fluffy stuff) to make the insides of the firework,
and you push them out through the top with a wooden stick, so that golden stars
"pop" everywhere! There is a big orange pompom for a fuse. Before
that, what I mostly made was what every knitter makes; lots and lots of basic
knitted squares, riddled with mistakes.
Tell us about your relationship to Shetland and Shetland wool. Does
Shetland wool have a particular feel?
I became interested in Shetland
and Shetland wool through my growing fascination with different UK sheep breeds
and the history of woollen textiles. Shetland is very important in the
history of UK textiles, and the two most famous Shetland textile exports are
arguably Shetland lace, and Fair Isle knitting. The Shetland lace shown here is
from an amazing book by the Shetland GUild of Weavers, Spinners and Dyers,
called "A Legacy of Shetland lace" and the Fair Isle knitting was photographed at The Shetland Textile Museum.
Because of its position in the
North sea, Shetland has always enjoyed a steady flow of maritime visitors.
Lerwick - the capital and main port of Shetland - has been used as a trading
centre for centuries, and one of the most important Shetland exports sold here
has historically been hand-knitting. This knitting, made by the incredibly
skilled women of the isles, was produced using wool from the island's native Shetland sheep.
In terms of the wool itself,
Shetland wool is soft, but also a little tiny bit 'sticky' which makes it
perfect for producing stranded colourwork - like Fair Isle knitting - because
when you block the knitting (that is, when you wet it and stretch it into shape
after it's been knitted) it smooths down into a lovely soft surface with a
lovely bloom of fuzzy wool fibres over the top. A very shiny or silky yarn
would not produce the same effect!
Talk about your connection to Estonia.
I went to Estonia in 2012 for a
residency to explore the Estonian wool industry! It was amazing, and I learnt alot but one of the
things I found especially inspiring was discovering that in Estonian National
Folk Costume, all of the parishes and regions of Estonia traditionally had
their own special knitting patterns, stripe sequences for skirts, and
distinctive adornments. In the image, you can see some amazing stockings from
the island of Muhu, showing the distinctive use of pink that was popular in
this region! This photo was taken in the Estonian National Museum, and it's
through glass, but you can still hopefully see the extraordinarily tiny
stitches and the intricacy of the patterns, as well as the exuberant palette!
Talk about the relationship between the traditional knitting
patterns of Estonia and Shetland and what connects them.
What connects Estonia and Shetland
is the sea. Looking on a map, you can see that the Baltic and Scandinavian countries
all border the ocean, and that Shetland sits along direct trading routes
between these countries and the Faroe Islands, Iceland, and Greenland. Alice
Starmore has proposed in her excellent book about Fair Isle knitting that while
there were examples of stranded knitting in the Baltic countries as early as
1800, no such examples appear in Shetland until the 1850s. According to
Starmore, it must have been through Baltic hand-knits reaching Shetland that
the Fair Isle knitting tradition was
founded. Nevertheless, in the hands of knitters in Fair Isle (a small
island off mainland Shetland) the tradition of stranded knitting (knitting
geometric patterns by using 2 colours at a time) took on a distinctive life of
its own, and when you look at Estonian handknits vs. Shetland hand-knits, you
can clearly see two very distinctive styles!
One of the things that is most
interesting I think is looking at older examples of knitting from before
synthetic dyes became widely available. At this earlier point, local resources
were limited to dye plants and the different colours of wool that you can
obtain from sheep. It is striking to see that the same palette of natural
sheepy shades, (browns, creams, dark browns, white etc.) limited quantities of
expensive indigo-dyed yarn, and yarn dyed red, (with bedstraw in Estonia and
madder in Shetland) were utilised in completely different ways by the knitters
of these different nations! This stocking from Kihnu in Estonia uses a bright
yellow obtained from dyeing with Birch leaves in early spring, combined with
bedstraw-root-dyed red, and the natural woolly shades to be found in the
fleeces of sheep living on the island of Kihnu.
The beautiful creamy, white, gold, and brown knitting from Shetland - while displaying a very similar palette - has a totally different feeling to it; the colours transition much more softly, and the patterns resemble Os and Xs - hence, why when you talk about Fair Isle knitting, you often mention "OXO patterns".
The patterns and colours in the KNITSONIK book are largely inspired by
everyday objects, when did you begin to recognise patterns in everyday
life? Are the Estonian and Scottish
patterns you draw inspiration from also inspired by everyday objects?
The truth is that it is very easy
to ascribe a meaning to a pattern you find on a sweater in a museum, but
without being able to ask the knitter whether the patterns in their sweater
were representative of something, it's really difficult to conclusively say.
Many myths have been created about knitting, and so I am very cautious and do
not wish to add more nonsense to the claptrap that has been written before! But
with my own knitting patterns and The KNITSONIK Stranded Colourwork Sourcebook,
a key focus is definitely on every pattern having a specific basis in everyday
life! For instance one of the swatches is inspired by my favourite beer -
Summer Lightning, which is brewed by the Hop Back Brewery. This is served in
our local pub and has a distinctive brand and label. I would say that I searched
in the pump clip for pattern ideas, rather than that I just noticed patterns
there in that case, but in the case of the bricks of Reading, for me these are
so suggestive of knitting charts, that the translation of bricks into knitting
was an obvious choice!
What are some of the characteristics that need to be present
for something to become a successful knitted pattern?
The right levels of contrast and
shading; a way of thinking about shapes as continuous, rhythmic ideas rather
than discrete objects; exciting colour relationships; the concept of details
that you can zoom in on and also an overall impression produced from multiple
parts... I could go on and on!
The everyday objects in our homes such as the little
assemblages of mementos on our mantels and bedside tables tell a story about
who we are. Do the objects and spaces
you transform through knitting tell us a story about you Felicity Ford?
Oh yes, I'm sure they do! The
everyday case studies which I have chosen to illustrate the concept for the
book are very "me". I really want to speak directly to the knitters
who read the book and felt right from the outset that the writing would need to
have an authenticity about it. I am a terrible liar and can't fake anything, so
all of the examples in the book are genuinely things I love! Reading's
brickwork; weeds at the end of our street; the A4074 road; a vintage Huntley
& Palmer biscuit tin; beer; sloes
grown in my garden (which we use to make sloe gin); my favourite old pair of
socks; a 1930s book on electricity; fruitcake; my EDIROL R-09 digital sound
recorder; an old factory near where I live, and lichen on a tree... I guess
this selection outs me as being a bit of a tomboy and a bit of a romantic, and
points to the familiar textures of suburban Britain which defined my life
growing up in this country (A roads, crumbly industrial estates). The list also
reveals my passion for field recording and tinkering, and my love of cakes,
thick socks, and alcohol. Everyone's list will be different, but there are
enough things - environmental textures, personal mementoes, nerdy treasures -
in this list for it to speak to the instincts of anyone who has things that are
special or precious to them.
Could you talk about the overlap between your interests as an
audio artist and your interest in traditional craft?
I spoke about this quite a bit
yesterday in my blog with Deb Robson but the main overlaps concern texture, a sense of place, and that special
quality of listening and paying attention to the everyday world around you. I
have a nice slide from a presentation I gave which I think shows the
connections quite nicely!
The book KNITSONIK combines knitting and sound with an iTunes
album due for release after the book is published. When you first conceived of this project did
you know that you wanted to combine the two experiences for your audience?
Yes - I think that the idea of
producing the book and the iTunes album in tandem is a natural extension of
projects I have been working on in previous years which combine knitting in
sound in different ways. My first combinations of knitting and sounds were made
for BBC Oxford, and were short, narrative pieces connecting knitting with the
local landscape. For instance I once dyed wool using black walnut hulls that
grows in the ground of St. Mary's Butts, and then used this to knit a stranded
colourwork motif resembling the brickwork of that same Church, and I told the
whole story of this piece in a short radio feature for BBC Oxford, which
included the sounds of the bells of the church in the audio!
In 2012 I recorded the sounds of Cumbrian sheep farms in the Lake District. My recordings were of interviews with shepherds keeping Herdwick, Swaledale, Rough Fell and Hebridean sheep, and I also recorded the sheep and the weather in Cumbria. These sounds were carefully mixed into a long soundscape which I played in a gallery through a knitted speaker system, comprised of 32 miniature speakers, each covered in wool (often originating from the same farms as the sounds). In Shetland last year for Wool Week, I wanted to move away from the idea of doing a gallery piece, and so instead I concentrated on developing - with enormous support and encouragement from the fantastic Shetland Museum & Archives, along with Promote Shetland - little kits which would enable knitters to make a small pillow out of Shetland wool, with a speaker inside it. The pattern booklet included in this kit explains how to go to the special project map I produced on Udo Noll'saporee website where you can download sounds which relate to Shetland wool, including sounds of spinning, carding and knitting wool, and also of course the sound of the sheep on whose backs wool grows, out in the amazing Shetland landscape!
In 2012 I recorded the sounds of Cumbrian sheep farms in the Lake District. My recordings were of interviews with shepherds keeping Herdwick, Swaledale, Rough Fell and Hebridean sheep, and I also recorded the sheep and the weather in Cumbria. These sounds were carefully mixed into a long soundscape which I played in a gallery through a knitted speaker system, comprised of 32 miniature speakers, each covered in wool (often originating from the same farms as the sounds). In Shetland last year for Wool Week, I wanted to move away from the idea of doing a gallery piece, and so instead I concentrated on developing - with enormous support and encouragement from the fantastic Shetland Museum & Archives, along with Promote Shetland - little kits which would enable knitters to make a small pillow out of Shetland wool, with a speaker inside it. The pattern booklet included in this kit explains how to go to the special project map I produced on Udo Noll'saporee website where you can download sounds which relate to Shetland wool, including sounds of spinning, carding and knitting wool, and also of course the sound of the sheep on whose backs wool grows, out in the amazing Shetland landscape!
In this latest version of
combining knitting and sounds, it is really to the everyday environments in
which we knit, and our shared use of Shetland wool, to which I want the audio
to refer. I love the word "transmission" and am always thinking about
the listener who receives my transmission. In this instance, the listener is -
like me, a knitter interested in imaginatively exploring the everyday world
around them as a resource for knitterly inspiration! I want to offer the sounds
which I find inspiring in my daily life as a creative extension to that
mission... I love the idea of a knitter listening to sonic textures from my
spot here in Reading and then - perhaps hearing the traffic and the bees in one
recording or other - suddenly being reminded of a certain combination of traffic
and bees, a moment of grass, fences, the blue slanting sky... and getting an
idea to knit something. I get ideas for my knitting from sounds all the time,
and in this album I want to share that with other knitting comrades. Just like
I want to share my ideas about how we can turn everyday inspirations into
stranded knitting!
The album is called The KNITSONIK
Audible Textures Resource, and as its name implies, the idea here is to create
a series of recordings which are rich in their suggestions of place, and
tactility. Several tracks will have quite direct relationships with the book -
the A4074 road which is the focus for one of the case studies explored for
colourwork was also the focus for a radio documentary I produced for BBC
Oxford! - whereas other ideas will be explored more indirectly. I want to make
biscuits according to a vintage Huntley & Palmers recipe and record sounds
from this process, for instance, as a sonic accompaniment to the stranded
colourwork I have created based on a vintage Huntley & Palmers biscuit tin!
Listening to the biscuits being made, owning the tin, and knitting colourwork
based on its design, are all imaginative ways of trying to engage with the long
history the biscuit factory had here in Reading and the lasting influence which
it had on the town, in its heydey.
Finally, how can followers of our blog contribute to your
Kickstarter campaign?
Happily, the book has already been
funded through Kickstarter! I cannot tell you how amazing this is, and it is a
reflection of the enthusiasm and supportiveness of KNITSONIK comrades
everywhere that my vision for the book has been so quickly funded. People
obviously really want this book, and I am very excited by that, because I
really want to write it! The campaign will however continue to run until the
28th April, so if people are excited by any of the ideas in this interview,
they could check it out! Backing the project is still the best way to ensure
that you are near the front of the queue for a copy of The KNITSONIK StrandedColourwork Sourcebook when it gets printed this November!
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